Let's start with the Volney close to the Olympia

Our what's new in season are all a free color Bistro, a strand of canaillerie, a mixed old pots in which made the good tambouille, some clever ideas most current wine malignant shovel, a setting of character, and a rather nice, without being too demonstrative home.

Let's start with the Volney, close to the Olympia. The place has a crazy class (wide counter, mirrors, large black potiches of Jean-Jacques Roger...) and the two young owners, Aurélien and François, who set their grain of salt across with a lot of tact, are to congratulate. Bravo also for the excellent wine list, artwork by François, whose passion for the vineyard sound evidence. High of approximately 100 references (including a dozen glass), it is good place to safe values, but does not hesitate to affirm its affinities with some lesser-known areas, this at decent prices. During a first visit, fairly banal, even poor kitchen had hardly persuaded us, chef fortunately has to change, and the rally is palpable. The armorican monkfish casserole, farmer roast chicken with Sage, and the rack of roast lamb were no bad surprise. The magnet head work vegetables, are found well cooked in the dishes. Felted evening atmosphere and cool and jazzy soundtrack. At lunch, the show at the bottom of the restaurant is preferred.

Oberkampf times

Twice at Oberkampf. Firstly that of Chateaubriand, by Iñaki Aizpitarte (ex-La family, 18th), basque leader revered by a customer "arty", which however refuses to entertain the gallery with a purely conceptual kitchen, and disseminates the evidence in completed recipes. Fresh sardines cut into strips, wide lamella jelly poultry in coverage, and the alénois light together watercress, fresh, seasoned a minimum. Tuna in citrus fruits and nuts, association of soft flesh and crunchy unstoppable; brandade of cod, flexible and air; and in the end, the pink ice, Patty of curds and milk ribot, subtle hijacking of a return to India. No culinary Exhibitionism, but a sharp, both words in his ideas as his technique. The framework has lost nothing of its charm and wine authors, are easy to drink, starting with the Bertucci Cerdon.

Not far away, Astier, old glory bistrotière of the 1990s, now in the Frédéric Hubig, ex-Café modern in the stock market anyway, resumed his breath. Frédéric Hubig took custody of no change in mind Astier of household dishes: rabbit with mustard, pan-fried RIS of lamb Punjab pepper sauce, etc. (now developed by a Chief who mastered his subject), accompanied by a correct choice of bottles, and most importantly, addition size fine that the success of the House. The home was most kind and framework, small key in small touches, it refreshes slowly.

Taken over by a former Costes, the sunflower, in the 16th arrondissement, has two major advantages, beautiful 1930s bearing framework, and a full South Terrace where he made many edged day and night. If the short card of wines is in place Saint-milion, Château Smith, Pic Saint Loup area of the Hortus... , the kitchen seeks its brands. Excellent fricandeau, Arugula Salad, chips of Parmesan cheese and candied tomatoes, without risk, fried bacon-cheeseburger home, heart of net pepper sauce and casserole dish of Lamb with almonds and cinnamon, handcrafted of good intentions. Rest for the kitchen team to still do a lot of effort. The home and the service are impeccable except it is human when the terrace (80 seats) is overheating.